Mount the bike, putting one foot on the stage of the pedal while keeping the other foot planted on the ground. On the off chance that the pedals include toe-straps, which hold the foot set up on the pedal, ensure your foot is underneath this strap. (Reference: Best Mountain Biking Gear)
Turn the pedal to start a forward movement and promptly lift the other foot off the ground and place it on its pedal.
Pick an agreeable apparatus to start. 10-speed bikes incorporate a couple of levers, which might be found close to the directing section or on the sides of the edge. The left lever controls gears that are at the front of the bicycle, while the right lever controls those at the back. Pushing a lever forward increments accelerating trouble (be that as it may, the bike will travel advance per pedal stroke). Pulling a lever back will have the inverse impact. Continuously pedal while evolving gears.
Locate the best position for your hands. 10-speed bikes include drop-style handlebars. These bars turn down at the closures. Hands set on the highest point of the bars offer a relaxed riding position. Hands put on the brake hoods (situated on either side of where the handlebar starts to twist), or drops (the underside of the bars) give the rider a more streamlined, race-style position.
Work on breaking and ceasing. On either side of the handlebar, there are two break levers. The left-side lever controls the brake at the front of the bicycle; the right-side lever the brake at the back. When ceasing or moderating, delicately crush the left lever (front brake) and afterward apply the correct lever (raise brake) in the grouping.
Pull foot off the pedal, just before you grind to a halt. This is essential if your pedals are equipped with top straps. Try not to hold up until the bicycle has reached a full stop before evacuating your foot, else you may not get the foot down sufficiently quick, possibly bringing about a mischance.